Design your own knitted lace tank top

Do you ever go through your yarn stash and find a lovely summer yarn you were going to knit and you never did? By the end of this blog post, you'll be ready to cast on and knit a cool, sophisticated knit lace summer tank-top. The one in the photographs is knit with our yarn of the week, Universe, which comes in 10 elegant colors that each have a little bling bling in them to make your summer evenings sparkle.

Eyelet Lace knit with 2 different needle sizes

I'm knitting this summer tank top out of Universe for Pam (my wife), and I thought it would be an excellent project to share with you. I have 5 different colors of this linen-cotton yarn that has a little glitter in it, and I thought it would go perfect over a camisole and under a jacket shrug or evening stole on a late summer's evening out to the theater. I started with the darkest color I had (Tin) and changed the colors gradually as I worked up to the top. Below is a shot of it from the top down.

Eyelet lace from the top-down with gradient changes in color

I was inspired to develop this lace because of my love for Broomstick Lace, which is usually crocheted. I thought of the traditional knit sea-foam stitch, wherein extra wraps are made in certain stitches and then dropped to achieve an open lacy look. I played around with different increases and decreases till I got what I wanted. Then I threw in a change in needle size and voila...it was perfect.

Structure of Eyelet Lace

To knit eyelet lace for your summer top, use a fine light-weight yarn, like Universe, and a needle size that's perhaps one size (0.5mm) bigger than what is recommended on the yarn label. The pattern is made by working an even number of garter stitch rows between the eyelet lace rows. Change to a larger needle to work the first row that builds the eyelets. Each eyelet consists of 5 stitches that are worked together when you knit 7 stitches into each one. A single stitch flanks the eyelet on either side and separates the eyelets from each other. Work on a multiple of 6 stitches, plus 1.

Two rows after the eyelet row, you'll need to get rid of the extra stitches that were worked into the eyelets. This is achieved with a double decrease right above the flank stitches (circled in red above).

Eyelet Stitch Instructions

Abbreviations: K=knit; tog=together; sl2togkpsso=slip next 2 sts as if to knit them together, knit 1, pass both slipped stitches over stitch just knit; sl=slip; ssk=slip each of next 2 stitches knitwise, return to LH needle, knit 2 together through back loops; LH=left-hand; RH=right-hand; rep=repeat.

Cast on a multiple of 6 stitches, plus 1. For a decent sized swatch you'll want 31 or 37 stitches.

I used size 5 [3.75mm] needles for the main part of the stitch and a 7mm needle (closest size US 10 ½) for the eyelet row.

Rows 1-8: Knit with smaller needles.

Row 9 (RS): With size 7mm needle (or larger needle of your choice), k1, *[knit 1 by wrapping needle twice before drawing through stitch on LH needle] 5 times, k1; rep from * across.

Row 10: With smaller needles, k1, *[sl each of next 5 sts, dropping extra wraps, return to LH needle, through the 5 back loops together work (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1)], k1; rep from * across.

Row 11: Knit.

Row 12: K2tog, k5, *sl2togkpsso (see below), k5; rep from * across to last 2 sts, ssk.

Rows 13-18: Knit.

Row 19: With larger needle, k4, *[knit 1 by wrapping needle twice before drawing through stitch on LH needle] 5 times, k1; rep from * across, ending with k3.

Row 20: With smaller needles, K4, *[sl each of next 5 sts, dropping extra wraps, return to LH needle, through the 5 back loops together work (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1)], k1; rep from * across, ending with k3.

Row 21: Knit.

Row 22: K3, k2tog, *k5, sl2togkpsso; rep from * across to last 5 sts, ssk, k3.

Rows 23-28: Knit.

Repeat rows 9-28 for pattern.

Eyelet Lace is knit on a multiple of 6 stitches, plus 1.

Designing your own Tank Top

Now that you have knit a swatch, you'll want to measure how many stitches are worked over 4" [10cm]. This will be your gauge.

Second, you'll need just a few measurements.

Schematic for a summer lace tank top

You can have a friend take your measurements while you're in a bathing suit, but another easy way to get the numbers you need is to lay your favorite store-bought tank-top or t-shirt on a flat surface with the seams at the edges and measure from there. You'll really only need the following to start, your bust measurement (at the widest point without adding any give or ease) -- A on the schematic. Your cross-back measurement, B on the schematic, which is the distance from your left shoulder bone to your right shoulder bone. On a t-shirt this is the distance from one sleeve/shoulder seam to the other. On your body, be sure to ignore any soft tissue or muscle and go from the knobby part of the shoulder bone to the other outer knobby part. On the diagram you'll see that the shoulder straps are a little bit in from the outer limits of measurement B...and that's because you want the straps to cover bra or camisole straps.

A few calculations to design your tank top

Take your bust measurement and subtract ½" [1cm] from the total and then divide by 2. Round off any numbers to the nearest ¼" [0.5cm].

Example: 46" - ½" = 45½", divided by 2 = 22¾".

A is the whole bust measurement on the schematic. Half of A is the width of the Front or Back of the Tank Top you are making. And we will knit the Front first, and then the Back separately.

If you have a gauge of 26 sts over 4" [10 cm] then you insert that value into this formula.

A ÷ 2 ×26 ÷ 4... and that's the number of stitches to cast on. in my example, that would be:

22.75 × 26 ÷ 4 = 148 stitches. I also need a multiple of 6 plus 1, so.

148 ÷ 6 = 24.666667  so I'll ignore the numbers after the decimal point and multiply that number by 6 again.

24 × 6 = 144, + 1 = 145 stitches. Because we're knitting a tank top we want to fit snugly, it's better to round down than to round up.

In your case, you will need to change 26 for the number of sts you have in 4" and the value of A to get the right number.

If I were using centimeters, my example would look like this:

A = 114.5cm  and my gauge is 26 sts per 10cm.

A ÷ 2 × 26 ÷ 10 = 148.85...which when divided by 6 would be 24 as well, so I would cast on 145 stitches.

You can cast on this number of stitches and knit the Eyelet Lace pattern until the piece is as long as you want it from under your arm (the beginning of the armhole shaping to the bottom─distance G on the schematic.

The bodice of the tank top

This tank-top design is simple to design yourself, particularly once you get to the armhole shaping. Use the cross-back measurement B and then use your gauge again.

My example:
If my wife's cross-back measurement is 16½", then I take
16.5 x 26 ÷ 4 and get 107.25...do the math to see how many multiples of 6 I get.

107.25 ÷ = 17.875...that's pretty close to 18, so I'll round up in this case.

So that's 18 x 6 + 1 = 109 stitches.

Now I need to get rid of some stitches on both sides of the bodice panel, so I will take my original 145 and subtract 109... that gives me: 145−109 =36 stitches . However, I don't want the shoulder straps to sit right at my wife's shoulder bone, so I'll bind off about another inch-worth of stitches. To start my armhole shaping I would bind off 18 sts (half of 36) plus another 6 (to adjust the location of the strap edge). That's 24 sts cast off at the beginning of the next 2 rows. When I bind these off, that may land me in the middle of an Eyelet lace repeat, so I would just work enough stockinette stitches over to begin an Eyelet lace repeat.

Then I'll continue in the Eyelet lace pattern as established until I reach the point that my wife wants the neckline to begin. At that point, I'll just figure out how many inches wide she'd like each strap (see the little notches on line B on the schematic) and knit that many stitches on each side of the bodice panel, casting off the middle ones for the neck opening (D on the schematic).

The depth of the armhole (C on the schematic) is also a personal choice.  Knit the straps until the bodice panel from the beginning of the armhole shaping is your desired depth. If you are knitting for someone else and it's a gift or a surprise and you don't want to try it on until it's done, you can use the measurements provided by the Craft Yarn Council as a guideline. For women, men and children, there are charts which indicate what the standard armhole depth is for different sizes.

The Back piece is worked just like the front except you can choose to raise or lower the neckline -- the straps can start right at the beginning of the armhole shaping which would change their length in the Back (E on the schematic), or the neckline can be placed higher than the front, or even the same height.

Close up of Eyelet Lace on the needle cable

There's a few more weeks in July left and I'd better get cracking and finish this tank-top for my wife. I hope you've enjoyed this week's posts about Universe yarn and that you feel inspired to try knitting with this excellent yarn.

Adding a picot edging to a lace stole or shawl

There are many different edgings that designers can add to their knit lace shawls or stoles. In today's post, we'll explore 2 simple solutions to adding easy picot edgings. This week we're working with Universe yarn, a beautiful mix of cotton, linen, polyamide, and a touch of glitter.

Picot Edging worked in crochet with Universe yarn

Right off the bat, and on a little side note, you may notice that the yarn on the skein in the photo is unruly and falling off the ball and making a bit of a bird's nest. Every ball of Universe is wound on a paper core and comes with a rubber elastic around it and a paper ball band to keep it neat and tidy when displayed or stored in your stash. But when knitting with this yarn, I did find that several strands of it wanted to spring off the ball and into my knitting faster than I could keep up. I solved this two ways. I kept the rubber elastic around the ball and released several meters at a time. It didn't tangle this way, and I was able to tame the yarn constantly. A friend of mine at knit-night is knitting a shawl and he re-wound the yarn into a cake with a ball winder and has a rubber band around it, but as it's a center-pull ball, the yarn is coming from the inside and behaving itself.

For those of you who are multi-craftual/ cross-crafters, crocheting a picot edging may be the first course of action you choose because it's faster than knitting and you can have your lace stole or shawl ready to wear much sooner. For the non-crocheters reading along with us, I'll give several knit options later on.

Crocheted picot edging

A crocheted picot edge is great for rectangular stoles because they are worked the same on both ends, and like beads, they add a little extra weight, so the lace remains taut and lovely.

Crochet stitches don't necessarily match up with stitch gauge in knitting, so to start with, you'll need to swatch both a little of the crochet and a little of the knitted lace pattern of your stole. Find a favorite knit lace pattern in a stitch dictionary and work up a little swatch with 20 or so stitches. Knit enough rows to get a decent row gauge. For the crochet edging part of the swatch, I'd recommend that you ignore the ball-band recommendation. If you used 3mm (no US equivalent) for the knitting, go up to a 3.5 or 3.75mm (US E or F) crochet hook, so that the crocheted lace balances the knitted lace, and isn't tighter than it.

Here are the instructions for the crocheted picot edging pictured above.

Crocheted picot edging

Abbreviations (US terms): ch=chain, sc=single crochet, tr=treble crochet, lp=loop, rep=repeat, sl st=slip stitch, st=stitch

Chain a multiple of 4 until your foundation chain is 5" to 6" long [13 to 16cm].
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—you'll have 1 less sc than you did chs, an odd number.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 5, sk first 2 sc, tr in next sc, *ch 1, sk next st, tr in next st, rep from * across, turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first tr, *sc in next ch sp, sc in next tr; rep from * across, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in next st, *sc in next st, ch 3, sl st in front lp and front vertical leg of sc just made, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * across. Fasten off.

The next thing to figure out is how many stitches to pick up to knit across the other side of the foundation chain. For example, if your swatch tells you that you need to knit 20 stitches across 4" [10cm] but your crochet swatch has 18 stitches/chains across 4" [10cm], you'll need to pick up 2 extra stitches in every 4" [10cm] section of the stole. To do this, make 2 stitches out of one crocheted stitch. I do this by inserting the needle in the back loop of the next stitch and knit, then inserting the needle in the front loop of the same stitch and knit.

If you need fewer knit stitches than you have along the crocheted edge, then simply skip a stitch or two (or as many as needed) over each 4" [10cm] span until you have the right number. Jot down the number of stitches on Row 2 -- you'll need this number at the other end of the stole.

At the opposite end of the stole, bind off, preferably with the bind off we looked at on Tuesday. Then, use your crochet hook to make the same number of stitches as in row 2 of the crochet edging evenly across the end of the stole and then work Rows 2 to 6.

 

Knit picot edging

Knit picot edging

In the above picture you can see a pretty bind-off technique that finishes up your knitting project and adds a lovely knit picot edging as well.

To make this finish symmetrical on both ends, cast on with scrap yarn. Then after the stole is finished and you have cast off the last row using this knitted picot edging, undo the provisional cast on, returning the stitches to the needles and work the knitted picot edging across the first edge.

With this edging, it doesn't really matter how many stitches you have on the needles. When you get to the last few stitches, if you can't work one more picot, just bind off (cast off) in your preferred method.

To work this picot edging, you need to now how to do the following:

Knit cast-on: Insert hook in stitch on the left hand (LH) needle and knit but without removing the stitch from the LH needle, rotate the right hand (RH) needle to twist the stitch and place it on the LH needle.

Instructions: K2, pass right-most stitch on RH needle over first st. Return this stitch to the LH needle. *Insert the RH as if to k2tog, but instead knit-cast on 1 st. Knit cast-on another st. K2. Pass the right-most st on RH needle over the first st. K1. Pass over. K1 through the back leg of the next st, Pass over. K1. Pass over. Rep from * across, ending with K1 pass over 1 or 2 times to use up all stitches.

Knitted Lace patterns: Whimsical Wrap (left) and Starry Road Scarf (right)

Amy Gunderson and the Universal Yarn design team bring us four great free knitted lace patterns to try. The first two, Starry Road Scarf and Whimsical Wrap don't have a picot edge, but the Starry Road Scarf on the right could easily be made using either technique we looked at today.

The other two designs, Going Places Shawl, and Planetary Shawl, have dramatic dramatic, knitted on edges already written into the instructions. These four patterns feature Universe, our yarn of the week, and really show off the subdued elegance that this yarn brings to knitted fabric.

The free patterns from Universal Yarns show how well Universe yarn takes aggressive wet-blocking (soaking the finished piece in water, pinning out the points and any internal lace features and allowing to dry), and how lovely the finished drape is. Let us know if you try any of these patterns.

4 cast ons for knitting circular lace

This week, as we explore the beautiful projects that you can knit using Universe, a lovely linen-cotton yarn by Universal yarns, I'll draw your attention to 3 ways to start your circular knits from the center out. Universe is perfect for lace knitting, and we'll see a few examples of what that looks like today. Center-out cast-on techniques are great for any type of circular project that either comes to a point, like a hat, or needs to lay flat, like a circular washcloth.

Center of a circular lace shawl in Universe yarn

Well, it's tricky to see, but in this unblocked piece of circular lace, I started knitting from a center-out cast-on -- a nice neat one that cinches up tight and neat. Here's a better picture of what this piece looks like on the blocking mat.

Circular lace, pinned for blocking

This neat cast-on, which allows you to cinch up the stitches at the center of the circle, has been explained at length and illustrated by blogger TechKnitter (who prefers to stay anonymous). She calls it the disappearing loop method. And while it may feel a little awkward the first time you attempt it, this cast-on is one of my favorites.

She mentions a different center-out cast on which is based on crochet. So for any of you whose fingers dabble in both (or even more) crafts, Emily Ocker's cast on is quite straightforward. It's not the same thing as crochet's "magic ring", so don't get the two confused. This is more of a situation where Tunisian crochet meets regular crochet to benefit knitters.

A third center-out cast on that works is the famous Magic Cast-on for toe-up socks that was developed by Judy Becker. For most toe-up socks you would be casting on at least 18 to 26 stitches using this method, which leaves a nice, seamless, no-ridge toe. If you use this method to cast on 6 or 8 stitches, and you start the lace pattern right away, there's no horizontal line of stitches. Instead a nice circle forms. If you already know this cast on, it'll be a simple transition to use it for knitting circular lace.

Close-up of a garter stitch tab for lace knitting

A fourth option for starting a circular lace project is the garter stitch tab. The garter stitch tab often appears in older triangular shawl patterns, but it's well-suited to circles as well.

In the photo above, you can see that I've cast on 3 stitches and knit 7 rows. This creates 3 garter stitch ridges. To make the circle, you leave the 3 sts on the needle, then pick up and knit a stitch in each garter ridge edge (that's 3 across one side, 6 sts altogether). Then you pick up 3 stitches from the cast-on ridge, and 3 more from the garter ridges on the other side (12 sts in total).  I use 2 circular needles for my circular projects, but if you prefer double-pointed needles, you could have 3 stitches on each of 4 needles and knit with the 5th around. If you prefer the magic-loop method, you would put 6 stitches on each circular needle.

Close up of the garter stitch tab center

Amy Gunderson of Universal Yarns has designed 11 beautiful snowflakes that feature Universe yarn. These projects would be a good way to practice using any of these 4 center-out cast-on techniques.

Pictures from "A Universe of Snowflakes"

I think these snowflakes are just magical! Hmmm, there's the magic cast on, the magic ring, the magic loop...as knitters, we're really enthralled with what we do, and yes it sure can be magical. I hope you find some time to knit some magic with what we covered today.

Best bind-off for cotton yarn

This week, I'm exploring the yarn of the week, Universe, by Universal Yarns, and what is the best bind-off or cast-off to use with a yarn like this. Universe is a glammed-up linen and cotton blend that is perfect for lace knitting and warm-weather knits. I love how it reflects colors from its surroundings. One characteristic of Universe is that it isn't elastic. A bonus of this is that when knit, Universe makes a light, airy fabric with a lot of drape. Something I've learned to be careful about when working with a yarn like this is which bind off to use.

Close-up Universe yarn

I suppose that the cast-on you choose to use with Universe is important too, but I think that it depends on the kind of edging your piece needs to have. I used the long-tail cast-on and size 0 [2mm] needles and the cast on was snug. I was just making a swatch, so it didn't matter, but a knit-on cast-on or cable-cast on would be good to use with the bind-off that I finally decided would be the best; But I'll talk more on that later. Let's start with the swatch I made. I tried garter stitch on small needles. It created a lovely, structured edging for the swatch that still has drape and movement.

Garter stitch edging in Universe yarn

I then changed to size 5 [3.75mm] needles and worked in stockinette stitch. In my opinion, this was one or two sizes too large for this yarn, at least for the way I knit. It was challenging to keep my tension even. Yarns made of linen and cotton, have no stretch or memory, so when a stitch comes out a little looser than its neighbors, there's nothing pulling it into a size consistent with those around it. I think 3mm needles (nearest US equivalent is size 3) would be best for me to achieve a nice, consistent tension. That said, if I was knitting lace with lots of yarn overs, I would for surely use 3.75mm needles. The evenness of each individual stitch isn't as crucial when there are yarn-overs as it is in stockinette stitch.

Uneven tension in stockinette stitches

So which bind-off is the best one to use with a non-stretchy yarn like Universe's linen cotton blend?

I first tried what I would call the "normal" bind-off where you knit 2, pass the first stitch over the second one; then you knit one, and pass the previous stitch over the one just knit and so on. However, just for fun, I bound-off on the purl side. This resulted in that ever-so-frustrating puckered edge. You may have done this on a neckband only to have your eyebrows (and, in my case, beard) shaved by the bound-off edge.

Tight bind-off edge

I then tried the following bind-off: I knit 1 stitch and returned it to the left needle and then it and the next stitch together (k2tog). Then, I returned that stitch to the left needle and knit 2 together and so on. This created a slightly looser bind-off and what I would describe as a slight bouclé edging.

Finally, I tried the following and I do believe that it is indeed the best bind-off to use with non-elastic yarn.

I knit the first stitch and returned it to the left needle purlwise (or basically through the front loop of the stitch on the right-hand needle with the needle points facing each other). Then I knit 2 stitches together through the back loops, returned this stitch to the left-hand needle (purlwise, again), and knit 2 stitches together through the back loops. Eventually, I developed a rhythm which involved fewer movements because, as I returned the stitch to the left-hand needle I also inserted the right-hand needle into the back loop of the next stitch, making everything set to knit the 2 stitches together through the back loops.

A close up of my best bind-off for cotton or linen yarn

As you can see above, this bind-off doesn't pucker -- it lies flat and has a nice finish. I would recommend this bind off for any project using cotton or linen or any other non-elastic yarn.

When you encounter a characteristic about a yarn that at first gives you grief, don't give up on it: look for a solution to the challenge. In upcoming posts, we'll look at how great Universe looks as knitted lace, something that it comes by naturally.

Knitting with Universe an elegant spring-summer yarn

This week I have the opportunity to knit with Universe, a lovely, elegant light linen yarn by Universal Yarns, designed to honor their 10th anniversary. This linen blend is perfect for knitting items that you can wear during the transitional times between spring and summer and summer and fall, and throughout the whole summer as well. You will find the items that you can knit with Universe will be romantic and have an understated glamour to them. Today let's look at how this yarn is designed and a few ways how it looks knit up.

Universe linen-blend yarn by Universal Yarns

Universe linen-blend is classified as a super-fine (#1 according to YarnStandards.com) yarn, equivalent to sock, baby or fingering weight. It comes in 10 colors, 1 for each of the 10 years of the Universal Yarns company. I love how they named each color according to the traditional gifts that are given for successive wedding anniversaries. The colors are subtle and muted, and really bring an elegance to the yarn itself.

The fiber content of Universe consists of 42% linen, 41% combed cotton, 9% glitter and 8% polyamide. Each element of this yarn adds to its overall effect once it is worked up, making Universe everything you'd want in a stellar summer yarn.

 

5 of the 10 colors of Universe linen-blend yarn

One of the most challenging photographs to take is of anything that glitters. For some reason, camera lenses don't want to catch the glints and sparkles of items that aren't moving. So even if you cannot see it in the photo, believe me that Universe yarn has fabulous glitter that isn't overwhelming. Think of a demure Diana, Princess of Wales, not a garish Liberace. Each ball has a strand of glitter that is flat like a microscopic ribbon and one side is silver and the other side is gold. As the glitter is spun with the other plies, one or the other side of the ribbon shows on the yarn and catches the light. Universe has just the right amount of sparkle for a summer wedding shawl: pretty, but you won't outshine the bride!

I received the 5 colors above to sample. In the back row of the photo above, from left to right, are Tin and Bronze. Tin is a warm charcoal gray with rose and olive undertones. Bronze is a warm mocha brown with warm bronze undertones. In the front row, also from left to right, are Pottery, Silk, and Crystal. Pottery is a pale lichen green which reminds me of a very light white clay with a tinge of green glaze. Silk is the color of champagne, a pale creamy yarn with the smallest blush of pale rose. And Crystal is a wintery white, crisp and clean.

Elements of Universe Yarn and how they are combined

One of my dream jobs would be designing yarn itself. I think the team who developed Universe yarn had a blast! If you look at the above picture of a "dissected" strand of yarn, the leftmost white strand is a thick and thin slub ply of linen. When linen is spun, it is often the case that these slubs (or wider segments) are allowed to stay in the ply. Then there are 5 plies of combed cotton which is evenly twisted and doesn't have slubs.

The 2-sided glitter tape became very fragile when I poked at it with pins and tried to separate it from the other plies, so it looks frayed in the photo, but when intact, one side is silver and the other gold. It is the topmost strands in the close-up.

The last ply consists of the black polyamide. This is an extremely fine black thread that acts as a binder and is wrapped around the other plies rather than twisted alongside them. It has some elasticity and adds that to the final yarn to a small degree. If you look carefully, you can see that the wrap of the black binder thread isn't completely even; there are even times when it is wrapped about 10 times around the same millimeter of yarn, creating a little black dot.

Close-up of Universe in the Crystal colorway

Universe is a very pretty yarn and it knits up into very pretty things. Other posts this week will explore how to cast off when knitting with non-stretchy yarns, and designing your own summer shell. We'll also look at some other tidbits related to using Universe. Here's a little video I made to hopefully catch some of the glitter in action.

A review of Universe yarn by Universal Yarns - YouTube

A brief video capturing the glittery movement of Universe linen-blend yarn. See www.knitmuch.com for the full review.

via: youtu.be

Alter the knitted Any Day Beret for summer wear

The Any Day Beret is something that really caught my eye when I was scrolling through Red Heart’s patterns. I decided to knit it up in With Love yarn. It’s a nice light hat perfect for the autumn wear (and spring too!) Knit it now, and be ready for the fall season.

The photo from the pattern in a beautiful pink!

The headband creates a bit of interest by switching the direction of the stitches half way through the hat. It almost looks like a Brioche stitch with all the definition happening in the 'arrows'.

The pattern going up leaning to the left.

This hat is suited to a plainer yarn a solid color in other words. If knit up in a variegated yarn the interesting stitch pattern and the patterned yarn would be too much. You would end up with a ton of excitement on the top of your head.

The Strata yarn I talked about in yesterday's post would also lend itself well to this hat. Because of the bulk, it would end up being slouchy and you would (of course) have to adjust the amount of stitches you cast on. This is something easy enough to play with.

I would suggest putting stitch markers after each repeat of the pattern if you're like me and can't keep track.

I changed up the needle size and the amount of stitches I wanted to cast on With Love because I wanted the hat to be a bit more summery and wear it in the sun. I took the stitch count down to 64 and the needle size up to US10 [6mm]. This allows a lot more air space so the wind can blow through without making it look too loose.

And there is the switch! The pattern heads back to the right!

I’ve said it before and I’ll said it again, With Love is the perfect all-purpose yarn, you can make anything from it; hats, mittens, sweaters, rugs, blankets. Simple patterns look great with variegated yarn and complex ones are accented by the true solid colors.

Knit the Strata Cowl with a soft jersey yarn

From Crochet to Knitting

I was looking at the pattern of a crocheted cowl from the label of Red Heart’s yarn Strata and I wanted to turn it into a knitted cowl. Here's my rendition of it, I've kept it 'airy' so it can be worn during the warmer months of the year mostly in the office or on a date in the evening. Strata yarn is super soft, like jersey fabric.

Finished cowl

materials

1 ball of Strata in the color Aran
1 set of US 15 [10mm] knitting needles

The lovely yarn Strata in the color Aran.

Cast on 27 stitches. Always slip the first stitch in the row as though to purl, purl the first row, knit the second row, then purl the third row. Now you are ready to begin your repeat.

This yarn suits itself very well to the large needle size.

Row 1: (RS) K2, p3 *Repeat to end and add additional k2 for border.
Row 2: (WS) P2, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1 *Repeat to the end with additional p2 for the border.
Row 3: (RS) K all stitches, drop the yos.
Row 4: (WS) P all stitches.

Mattress stitch the ends together and you won't even see the seam.

Dropping the yos will feel funny, but I promise it'll work. The large size of the needles ensures that you're going to get a very airy cowl.

Can you spot where the cowl was seamed together? It's not immediately noticeable laid out like this, and not at all when being worn.

This jersey yarn is really lovely on your skin and would be a delight when you knit anything that would be worn close to the skin. Cowls or even a shell for the cooler evenings.

Cordial yarn is ideal for a knitted market backpack

Cordial yarn takes us to the market again

Last year on KNITmuch I shared the pattern for a shopping bag using Red Heart’s Cordial yarn. This year I'm sharing the pattern to make a knitted backpack, since Cordial yarn is ideal for these types of knitted projects. It’s always easier when you have a bag you can sling over your shoulders rather than carry with one arm, especially if you’re at a market. With people jostling on each side and trying to find the best fruits and veggies, you want something easy to carry.

The knitted market backpack using Red Heart's Cordial is easy to use and stylish too!

materials
3 balls of Cordial in color Greyscale
1 ball of Cordial in color All-Star
1 set of 16" circular needles in US 7
1 button
1 tapestry needle

Cast on 20 stitches and knit in stockinette stitch for 10". You’re going to have a rectangular piece of knitting now and with the RS facing you pick up stitches along the outside edges. Knit up for 5" of plain stockinette to create the body of the bag. Then do one decrease round, k8, k2tog, k one round plain, k7, k2tog, then continue to knit in plain stockinette until your bag reaches 10½ʺ from the crease of the rectangle you made for the bottom.

Now you cast off. In order to make the edge of the super stretchy, cast off using Jenny’s Super Stretchy Bind Off. This is going to allow the bag to stretch and flex with the contents you put inside. In order to keep everything inside thread a length of yarn around the top, like a draw string and knot the ends.

After all the stitches have been picked up

Knit the cover for the top in your contrasting color. Cast on 30 stitches and knit in garter stitch for 6½ʺ, then create a button hole. K13 stitches, BO4, k13. On the return row k13, cast on 4 stitches using the backwards loop method. Continue in garter stitch for half an inch after the button hole. For the straps, cast on 7 stitches and knit in stockinette stitch. To determine the length of the strap, measure from your wrist to your armpit. For me, that is 18".

The cover for the backpack is literally a square with a button hole in one end. If you leave a long string on your cast on edge, you can use that yarn to sew it to the bag.

Cast on 20 stitches and knit in stockinette stitch for 10" which will make a rectangular piece of knitting. With the RS facing you pick up stitches along the outside edges. Knit up for 5" of plain stockinette to create the body of the bag. Then do one decrease round, k8, k2tog, k one round plain, k7, k2tog, then continue to knit in plain stockinette until your bag reaches 10½ʺ from the crease of the rectangle you made for the bottom.

Use a crochet hook to thread the yarn for your drawstring. I also used it to secure the top of the backpack to the body of it.

Putting it all together. Sew on the flap to cover the drawstring first, then sew the button in place. I know there is controversy in sewing with thread in your knitting, but this time I think you’re going to have to. The yarn won't fit through most standard button holes and Cordial yarn is sturdier than most. Make sure your straps have the smooth side against your shoulders and the rougher side facing out. That way if you’re wearing a tank top, the straps won’t chafe against your shoulders.

Backpack with the flap open and the drawstring still tied.

I hope you enjoy this version of the market backpack and play with the color variations. With all the interesting colors Cordial you'll be able to pick some exciting color combinations to take to the market.

The 1 knitting cast on you can't live without

Casting on is one of the most crucial skills a knitter will learn, and the backwards loop cast on is one of the most versatile cast ons there is. It can be used as a very basic, beginner's cast on or as a technique to cast off stitches in the middle of a row. This is a very easy technique to learn and you’ll never be able to go back.

Backwards loop cast on using With Love in the color Cerulean

Wrap the yarn counter clockwise around your thumb and slide the needle from the bottom up, transferring the yarn loop from your thumb to your needle. That is it! The whole cast on is a repeat of this technique.

You need to make sure the strand of yarn closest to you (that has come around the back of your thumb) is underneath the other strand, so they cross.

If you don’t like wrapping it around your thumb you can make a loop with the yarn and twist it backwards. To find out if you have done this technique correctly just let the loop go after you put it on the needle. If the yarn untwists and falls off, then you twisted it the wrong way.

If it's really not working for you, try wrapping the yarn the other way around your thumb, it might fit the mechanics of your personal cast on better.

Another way to use the backward loop cast on is when making button holes. Bind off the amount of stitches to cover your button, and on the return 'trip', use the backward loop technique to cast on the same amount of stitches you bound off in the previous row.

Put the needle underneath and bring it up through that little space between the yarn and your thumb.

This is going to be an important technique in our pattern tomorrow so give it a try. I think this is one of the most utilitarian, save-the-day techniques that I have ever used. Just don’t confuse it with an increase. You want to use a ktbl or kfb if you’re trying to make a stitch. This is a cast on method and will leave a horizontal boarder under the stitches you have cast on. Join me tomorrow for more knitting fun.

Red Heart's Strata yarn is perfect for summer knitting

Today we’re going over Red Heart’s Strata yarn; it might be bulky, but it's the perfect yarn for knitting during the summer months. With lots of fun summery colors and a very light feel, it's smooth on the skin, very much like a t-shirt would feel. There are a whole slew of projects I already have in mind for this yarn. Follow me!

Red Heart's Strata yarn in the colors Aran, Coral, and Purple

When I first unboxed this yarn, it was in with a couple different types of yarn, but I was drawn to it immediately from the texture. It feels silky and cool to the touch. When I took a closer look I realized it had a tube web-like construction, which gives it lots of stretch and the air-y texture I was noticing. 

The jersey soft webbing construction.

The fiber composition is 76% Acrylic and 24% Nylon, which means machine wash and dry! The instructions on the label are machine wash cold, tumble dry low, but that's common, you don’t want to put too much strain on the fiber and change the dimensions of your garment. If you absolutely want to be sure, I'd make a swatch and wash that bad-boy the same way you would want to wash your garment. Just to see what happens.

Washing instructions and all the important information.

Another thing that really caught my eye is the pattern on the label. Usually I brush by these because they are something like a hat, stockinette scarf, or an afghan that requires you to get a lot of yarn. The one on this label is extremely well suited to this yarn. It’s an airy cowl, an open stitch pattern that would be so deliciously squishy when knit up with this yarn. Placed on the model, it complements her shirt perfectly and looks natural. It’s something I could see people wearing; I feel like I should knit a few for my ‘last minute gift’ stash. This pattern is a crochet pattern, but perhaps I'll see if I can turn it into a knitting pattern later this week.

The pattern that was on the label Very V-Stitch Cowl

I love knitting with Strata yarn, it slides really well on the needles. I prefer bamboo needles just so I feel like I have a little more control; then the yarn isn’t sliding everywhere all willy-nilly. If you’re looking for some really easy-glide yarn, this is it! On the metal needles it moves along like a dream. If you’re using bamboo needles like me, just make sure your needles are in good working condition with no splinters; the same goes for wooden needles. I think this would be an excellent yarn for those with pain in their hands while knitting since it doesn't take a great deal of strength to wrangle.

Red Heart's Strata yarn in the beautiful coral color!

With summer coming up fast and furious I think it will lend itself well to summer knitting. It’s supposed to be a hot one this year, so start gearing up for 'sweltering heat' knitting!

Knitting lace with traveling repeats

This week we have been using Cotton True Sport by Fibra Natura to knit a lace pattern that has traveling repeats. In previous posts we looked at the elements of increases and decreases. Today, those elements come together.

Traveling Lace Stitch Pattern worked in Cotton True Sport yarn

If you normally knit from lace charts, you'll be familiar with the red or blue rectangles or boxes that are drawn around a series of stitches and a set of rows to indicate the repeats of the lace motif you're knitting.

If you normally knit from text instructions, you'll be familiar with the asterisks or square brackets or other symbols which tell you what series of stitches to repeat and with instructions such as "repeat rows 3-17 three times" give you the row repeats.

When it comes to traveling lace stitch patterns however, these conventions change a little. This tutorial will review the characteristics of traveling lace knitting stitch patterns and give you a few tips on how to use these amazing patterns in your handknits.

A close-up of a traveling lace, this one in an asymmetrical pattern

What are traveling lace stitch patterns?

Traveling lace stitch patterns are basically stitch patterns which have a diagonal bias built into them. They tend to be used over wider expanses of knit fabric in an all over pattern which makes the motifs appear to travel diagonally across the fabric. In the above photo, the 2 triangle peaks that are formed by the eyelets and the paired decreases are actually not parallel to each other. The tip of one triangle is 2 rows higher than the other if you could see this in a charted stitch diagram.

Diagonal bias patterns are more common in woven fabric than in handknits. Weaves such as twill and its variations like herringbone and hounds-tooth are quite common. Crows-foot satin and Dutch twill are other weaves that produce a diagonal appearance to color or other motifs in the fabric. Because the lace motifs don't stay in a straight line across the rows of handknit fabric, I call this traveling lace.

An example of a traveling lace stitch chart

As you can see in the above chart, there's a jog in the pattern repeat box. This is the easiest way to visualize traveling lace stitch patterns. If you look at the the diagonal line of yarn-over and decrease symbols and then you look for the same repeat of this diagonal formation above it, you'll notice that the line is shifted over. In this close-up of the chart it's possible to see how the motif travels to the right to form a diagonal bias. In the next close-up, you can see how the whole pattern repeat also has a row shift in it part way across the motif.

Rows in traveling lace stitch pattern

To read this traveling lace stitch pattern chart, you let your eye travel across the colored lines from the bottom right corner to the left; at the jog in the diagram, your eyes should jump up and a little to the left and you continue knitting across to the end of the motif repeat, then your eye returns to the bottom right line of the same color and you proceed across again (start with the light green line). You're not working short rows. The stitches on the needle are all on the same row, it's how your eyes follow the chart that changes.

This particular motif has lace work on the wrong side (WS) rows as well, so the WS rows are not just plain purl across. To work a WS row, start at the side of the repeat at the colored line of the WS row (the lavender pink one above the light green one) and read the chart to the right, dropping your eyes at the jog to the lower row of stitch symbols in the same color. Continue to the right and at the end of the repeat return your eyes to the left of the diagram.

I swatched this traveling leaf lace chart above several times but couldn't get it to work the way I wanted, so I searched out a similar one. As luck would have it, the new pattern looks less like leaves and more like the ripples made on a beach from the waves and tide, which I think is even prettier! I hope that you try this lace pattern on a project like a baby blanket or a stole. It's a multiple of 46 stitches, so if you want it wider, cast on 122 stitches to follow the chart below exactly.

I'm including the text instructions for this pattern, but unfortunately, traveling lace stitch patterns don't work well in text instructions because the jog can't be explained with words or asterisks and row repeats. At the start of each motif, the repeat is off by 2 stitches. As a result, it would take hundreds of rows for the diagonal pattern to completely move across the fabric and get back to the beginning. I have, however, included the text instructions for the first 52 rows.

Cotton True Sport yarn would be a perfect yarn to make a receiving blanket or a wedding stole using this stitch pattern. I hope you give it a try.

Cast on 122 sts.

Rows 1-4: K 122.

Row 5: K9, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k12 (117 sts).

Row 6: K5, p8, (p, k) in 1, [p14, (p, k) in 1, p26, (p, k) in 1] twice, p14, k5 (122 sts).

Row 7: K5, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k10 (117 sts).

Row 8: K5, p6, (p, k) in 1, [p14, (p, k) in 1, p26, (p, k) in 1] twice, p16, k5 (122 sts).

Row 9: K6, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8 (117 sts).

Row 10: K5, p4, (p, k) in 1, [p14, (p, k) in 1, p12] 3 times, p2, (p, k) in 1, p18, k5 (122 sts).

Row 11: K7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k6 (117 sts).

Row 12: K5, p2, (p, k) in 1, [p12, [p14, (p, k) in 1] twice] twice, p20, k5 (122 sts).

Row 13: K7, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, ssk, k5 (118 sts).

Row 14: K5, p17, [p11, (p, k) in 1, p3] twice, [p23, (p, k) in 1, p3] twice, p7, k5 (122 sts).

Row 15: K7, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k14 (118 sts).

Row 16: K5, p12, [p14, (p, k) in 1, p26, (p, k) in 1] twice, p12, k5 (122 sts).

Row 17: K7, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k12 (117 sts).

Row 18: K5, p8, (p, k) in 1, [p14, (p, k) in 1, p26, (p, k) in 1] twice, p14, k5 (122 sts).

Row 19: K5, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k10 (117 sts).

Row 20: K5, p6, (p, k) in 1, [p14, (p, k) in 1, p12] 3 times, p2, (p, k) in 1, p16, k5 (122 sts).

Row 21: K5, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8 (117 sts).

Row 22: K5, p4, (p, k) in 1, [p12, [p14, (p, k) in 1] twice] twice, p18, k5 (122 sts).

Row 23: K5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k6 (117 sts).

Row 24: K5, [p2, (p, k) in 1, p26, (p, k) in 1, p12] twice, p14, (p, k) in 1, p8, k5 (122 sts).

Row 25: K5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, ssk, k5 (118 sts).

Row 26: K5, p14, [p14, (p, k) in 1, p26, (p, k) in 1] twice, p10, k5 (122 sts).

Row 27: K5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k14 (117 sts).

Row 28: K5, [[p10, (p, k) in 1, p4] twice, p12] twice, p10, (p, k) in 1, p12, k5 (122 sts).

Row 29: K5, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k12 (117 sts).

Row 30: K5, p8, (p, k) in 1, [p14, (p, k) in 1, p12] 3 times, p2, (p, k) in 1, p14, k5 (122 sts).

Row 31: K5, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k10 (117 sts).

Row 32: K5, p6, (p, k) in 1, [p12, [p14, (p, k) in 1] twice] twice, p16, k5 (122 sts).

Row 33: K5, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8 (117 sts).

Row 34: K5, [p4, (p, k) in 1, p26, (p, k) in 1, p10] twice, p16, (p, k) in 1, p6, k5 (122 sts).

Row 35: K5, k2tog, yo, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k6 (117 sts).

Row 36: K5, p2, (p, k) in 1, p12, [p14, (p, k) in 1, p26, (p, k) in 1] twice, p8, k5 (122 sts).

Row 37: K6, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k5 (117 sts).

Row 38: K5, [[p12, (p, k) in 1, p2] twice, p12] twice, p10, (p, k) in 1, p10, k5 (120 sts).

Row 39: K7, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, k5 (117 sts).

Row 40: K5, p10, (p, k) in 1, [p14, (p, k) in 1, p12] 3 times, p1, (p, k) in 1, p12, k5 (121 sts).

Row 41: K8, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k12 (116 sts).

Row 42: K5, p8, (p, k) in 1, [p12, [p14, (p, k) in 1] twice] twice, p13, k5 (121 sts).

Row 43: K9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k10 (117 sts).

Row 44: K5, p6, (p, k) in 1, p26, (p, k) in 1, [p14, (p, k) in 1, p10] twice, p16, (p, k) in 1, p4, k5 (120 sts).

Row 45: K11, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8 (117 sts).

Row 46: K5, p4, (p, k) in 1, p13, [p13, (p, k) in 1, p26, (p, k) in 1] twice, p6, k5 (121 sts).

Row 47: K5, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k7 (117 sts).

Row 48: K5, [[p14, (p, k) in 1] twice, p12] twice, p14, (p, k) in 1, p8, k5 (122 sts).

Row 49: K5, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k6 (117 sts).

Row 50: K5, p12, (p, k) in 1, [p14, (p, k) in 1, p12] 3 times, p2, (p, k) in 1, p10, k5 (122 sts).

Row 51: K6, yo, ssk, k9, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k3, [k2tog, yo] twice, k6, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k8, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k8, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k5, [k2tog, yo] twice, k4, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k9, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k7, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, k7, yo, ssk, k5 (117 sts).

Row 52: K5, p10, (p, k) in 1, [p12, [p14, (p, k) in 1] twice] twice, p12, k5 (122 sts).