3 stitches knit up the honeycomb stitch

3 stitches knit up the stunning honeycomb stitch

This week on KNITmuch, we're knitting a cushion cover using 4 skeins of Uptown Worsted. So far we've introduced the project materials, the swatches and gauge requirements, and in yesterday's post we looked at the instructions for the back piece knitted in stockinette stitch. Today is all about the cables! Cabled stitches, even basic ones, are very decorative and eye catching and are arranged to knit the decorative honeycomb stitch.

Remember that for this cabled pattern, these are the 3 stitches you need to know:

• C4L: Put 2 sts on cable needle and hold in front. K2. K2 from cable needle.
• C4R: Put 2 sts on cable needle and hold in back. K2. K2 from cable needle.
• the m1 decrease, or "make one." You can find m1 instructions here.

The honeycomb pattern is one of the very enchanting knitting patterns, beautiful for its texture, uniform and visually soothing.

With your US7 [4.5mm] needles (or the size you need for gauge requirements, in Tuesday's post), work as follows for the cabled front piece of the cushion cover:

• Cast on 82 sts.
• Work 2 rows in stockinette stitch (Knit on RS, purl on WS).
• Next row (RS): K1, *m1, k1, rep from * to last stitch, m1, k1. (You now have 124 sts)
• Next row (WS): Purl all sts.

• Next row (RS): K2, *C4R, C4L. Rep from * to 2 sts from end of row, k2.
• Next row (WS): Purl all sts.
• Next row (RS): Knit all sts.
• Next row (WS): Purl all sts.
• Next row (RS): K2, *C4L, C4R. Rep from * to 2 sts from end of row, k2.
• Next row (WS): Purl all sts.
• Next row (RS): Knit all sts.
• Next row (WS): Purl all sts.

• Repeat these last 8 rows until work measures 18" from beginning, ending with a WS row.
• Next row (RS): K2, *k2tog, k1. Rep from * to 2 sts from end of row, k2. (You now have 82 sts).
• Next row (WS): Purl all sts.
• Bind off all sts.

Cabled stitches, even basic ones, are very decorative and eye catching.

Don't worry if this piece takes you longer to do than the stockinette piece that we knitted for the back. Cable stitches require more time (and yarn!) to create the same width of fabric than plain stockinette stitch does. But the result is too pretty to pass up! Cabled stitches, even basic ones, are very decorative and eye catching.

Join me tomorrow for finishing the cushion cover.

Knitting your Uptown Worsted cushion cover

Grab 4 skeins of your favorite Uptown Worsted color, US7 [4.5mm] needles, and a cable needle, and you'll be ready to start this cushion cover.

If you've been reading along with us this week on KNITmuch, you'll know we've been starting on a cushion cover project for the home, using Uptown Worsted yarn. In December we introduced some project options for the Uptown Worsted yarn, which is a versatile 100% acrylic. This is a great yarn choice for home projects because it's easy to care for - any spills or stains can be easily spot-cleaned or machine-washed since acrylic yarn is very sturdy. Today we'll be starting on the simple "back" piece for the cover. Pillow covers are a great way to upgrade your knitting skills on the way to sweaters or other large projects.

The final project! Uses 4 skeins of Uptown Worsted yarn.

In the photo above you can see the project as it is in the finished form. It has a front piece done in all-over cables, and a back piece that's completely stockinette (knit all sts on the right side, purl on the wrong side). Let's start with the wrong side piece. Using your US7 [4.5mm] needles (or the needle size you need for 17sts per 4" gauge) - either straight needles, or circular needles that you'd like to use to work flat, and your favorite color of Uptown Worsted, you're ready to cast on.

Uptown Worsted yarn is a versatile acrylic yarn ideal for knit projects for the home, blankets, and sweaters that will have a lot of use.

For the back piece:

• Cast on 82 sts.
• Knit in stockinette stitch (knit all RS sts and purl all WS sts) until the work measures 18½ʺ in length, ending with a WS row.
• Bind off all stitches, being careful not to bind off too tightly.

And that's it! In the next post we'll work on the front piece with the cabled pattern. This project will eventually use cabled stitches, and seaming skills. Cushion covers are a great way to upgrade your knitting skills on the way to sweaters or other large projects.

Swatching for your Uptown Worsted cushion cover

Uptown Worsted is a 100% acrylic, non-pilling yarn - a great choice for home accessory projects.

Knit along with us this week on the KNITmuch blog as we work on an accent cushion top using Uptown Worsted. Remember, you'll need 4 skeins of Uptown Worsted (or similar worsted weight yarn), the right needle size to get gauge (that we'll review in this post below), a cable needle, and a pillow foam insert. In this post we'll measure stitch gauge from two gauge swatches. If you're new to knitting a swatch, have a look at this past KNITmuch post for a quick review. Knitting a gauge swatch is important for larger projects that need to be a specific finished size. Let's get to it, swatching for your cushion cover using Uptown Worsted yarn!

All larger knitting projects should start with a swatch to make sure you're getting the right stitch gauge.

This is going to be a square cushion with one side worked in stockinette stitch (plain), and one side worked in an all-over cable stitch pattern. Many simple cushions sold in stores have a decorative side and a plain side, and knitting your own means you can choose exactly the right color that you want to suit your decor.

The stockinette stitch gauge we need is 17sts per 4" [10cm]. Knit a swatch like the one pictured above (I used US 7 [4.5mm] needles):

• Cast on 30 sts.
• First 4 rows: knit all sts.
• (RS): Knit all sts
• (WS): K3, p to last 3 sts, k3.
• Repeat the last 2 rows until swatch measures 5 ins tall. 
• Last 4 rows: knit all sts.
• Cast off all stitches. 

Once the swatch is complete, lay it out flat and use your measuring tape or gauge ruler to measure how many stitches there are in 4" of fabric. We're aiming for 17sts per 4" [10cm]. If you have more stitches than that, your gauge is too tight. Re-knit with a larger needle size and try again. If you have fewer stitches than 17, your gauge is too loose. Re-knit with a smaller needle size.

This cushion cover uses a cable stitch pattern on one side, which is a different stitch gauge than with stockinette stitch.

The other side of the pillow, the decorative side, uses an all-over cable stitch pattern that's fairly simple. However, cable stitch gauge is very different from stockinette gauge. Here we're going to measure how many repeats of the cable pattern appear over a specific width of the fabric. In the swatch above, 3 repeats of the stitch pattern (24 stitches of the cable pattern) measure 3.5" across. To do this you'll need to do 2 cable stitches, as follows:

• C4L: Put 2 sts on cable needle and hold in front.  K2. K2 from cable needle.
• C4R: Put 2 sts on cable needle and hold in back. K2. K2 from cable needle. 

Work this swatch as follows, with the same needle size you used to get stockinette gauge above.

• Cast on 34 sts.
• Row 1 (RS): K all sts.
• Row 2 (WS): K3, p to last 3 sts, k3.
• Row 3 (RS): K5, [C4R, C4L] 3 times, K5.
• Row 4 (WS): K3, p to last 3 sts, k3.
• Repeat these last 4 rows 4 times.
• Bind off all stitches.

To measure the pattern, place the tape measure or gauge ruler over the central 24 stitches that make up the cable pattern. You should have 24 stitches measuring 3.5". If you need to work this over a different needle size to get the cable pattern gauge, you can, since the front and back pieces of the pillow are worked separately.

In the next post we'll start the pieces for the cushion cover! It can sometimes be frustrating to have to knit a swatch first before starting the real project, but it makes a difference. The cushion cover needs to fit an 18" pillow form, so we need the cushion cover itself to be the proper size. Knitting a gauge swatch is important for larger projects that need to be a specific finished size.

Knitting for the home with Uptown Worsted

Greetings, fellow knitters! It's the start of a new year and finally winter weather has arrived, so doing some great cozy knitting at home is definitely on our "to do" list for free evenings and weekends. The nice thing about winter is that knitting inside feels like the perfect activity, since you can wear and use the things you knit and feel cozy and warm no matter where you are. If you've finished your gift knitting from the festive season, January is a great time to treat yourself with some home accessory projects.

 

Uptown Worsted is a great choice for home accessory projects.

Uptown Worsted is our favorite yarn for a second month in a row! We're going to be knitting with it all week to make a knitted cushion cover with a lovely all-over cabled pattern. To knit along with us this week, you'll need your favorite color of Uptown Worsted yarn, some 4.5mm needles (or whichever size you need to obtain the same gauge - you can also use circular needles to work flat), and a cable needle for help with the cables. Finally, the pillow will need a poly-fill pillow insert for the finishing touch.

A few skeins of yarn and a foam pillow insert will be transformed into a cozy pillow!

This is what the finished project will look like! Can you think of a place this lovely pillow would go in your home?

If you'd like to join us, gather up your supplies and then you can get started by knitting a swatch with your needles and the Uptown Worsted. You're aiming for a stockinette gauge of 17 stitches over 4" [10cm].

In tomorrow's post we'll review the stitch gauge for the stockinette part of the pillow, and another swatch for the cable pattern! Cushion covers are a great choice if you're looking for a slightly more advanced project than a scarf or hat, and there's a lot less pressure to get the fit right. And of course, January is a great time to treat yourself with some home accessory projects! Stay tuned tomorrow.

Try this ribbing to edge your knitted sweaters

Today we continue our exploration of ways to change a stitch pattern. Yesterday we looked at inserting a column of garter st to create a neatly reversible and almost mirror image stitch pattern. Today, we'll try adding a column of knit stitches between each pattern repeat to create a ribbing effect.

Right side of wisteria ribbing

Adding a column of knit stitches in between the repeats of the wisteria stitch pattern creates a lovely new ribbed look. The knit stitches jump forward and the petals and lace of the wisteria stitch recede slightly. This would add an interesting texture to a plain knit cardigan or pullover, and would be a lovely edge on a baby sweater, blanket or hat.

One thing I learned while swatching this stitch pattern is that the yarn used really influences the look of the end result. This yarn is Cerro by Classic Elite, and it's a 50-50 wool-cotton blend. It does help the stitches really have clear definition, but the decreased elasticity from the cotton does mean that you have to work the column of knit stitches with even tension. I didn't block this swatch, but I would expect the wool content would help make those knit stitches even out a bit. I think it would be worth practicing this modified rib with a non-fuzzy yarn, so that the stitches are even, but so that you don't lose the crispness of these stitches.

Wrong side of wisteria ribbing

This is the wrong side of the same swatch. As you can see the column of purl stitches recedes and the wisteria motif jumps forward. Why do ribbing the same old way as usual? I'd like to invite you to try to use one this wisteria ribbing in your next project. The diagram and instructions are below.

The other thing you could try is to reverse the knit and purl sts in the in between columns. This will make the RS of the wisteria motif jump forward on the RS of the fabric.

Diagram for ribbed wisteria stitch pattern

Instructions

Cast on desired number of stitches. There should be a multiple of 6 stitches, plus 1 for symmetry, plus 2 (one for each selvdge).

Row 1: S1 wyif, [k1, k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, s1-k1-psso] across to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2: S1 wyif, p1, k1, [pdblinc, k1, p1, k1] across.
Rows 3-20: Repeat rows 1-2.
 
Abbreviations
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together.
p = purl
pdblinc (purl double increase) = [purl, yrn, purl] all in next st together with yarn over
s1 wyif = with the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
s1-k1-psso = slip one stitch knitwise, then knit next stitch and pass the slipped stitch over.
yo = bring yarn forward and as you knit next stitch, allow to form a new stitch over right needle.
yrn = take yarn from front over right needle and return to front between needles (counter-clockwise)

1 essential tip about changing a knitting stitch pattern!

Today we end our travels through making changes to a stitch pattern. We've tried switching out knits for purls and vice versa, we've tried adding stitches in between motif repeats. Now we'll look at adding shaping between motif repeats.

Wisteria pattern with inset stitches added

In the swatch above you can see the right side of a stockinette inset that I've added between columns of Wisteria motifs. This approach to changing a stitch pattern will help with shaping options. You could add a wide swath of stockinette between each motif and gradually decrease to make a hat. If you have bands of stockinette stitch between motifs on a sweater, you could reduce the number of sts on each band for waist shaping and then increase again for the bust. There are really a lot of options for changing a stitch pattern using this approach.

Reverse stockinette side of inset between wisteria motifs

In the above swatch you can see the wrong side of the inset. I think if I were to design with this, I would swatch with the reverse stockinette stitch on the right side of the wisteria motif to see how it would raise the motif to the forefront.

Below you'll find the diagram and instructions to make this type of change to the wisteria stitch pattern.

Diagram for inset stockinette stitches on wisteria pattern

Instructions

Cast on a multiple of 6 stitches, plus 1 for symmetry, plus 2 (one for each edge).

Row 1: S1 wyif, [k1, k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, s1-k1-psso] across to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2: S1 wyif, [p2, pdblinc, p1] across to last 2 sts, p1, k1.
Rows 3-4: Repeat rows 1-2.
Row 5: S1 wyif, k1, k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, [s1-k1-psso, kfbf, k2tog, s1, yo] across to last 4 sts, s1-k1-psso, k2.
Row 6: S1 wyif, p2, pdblinc, [p5, pdblinc] across to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Row 7: S1 wyif, [k1, k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, s1-k1-psso, k2] across.
Row 8: S1 wyif, p2, pdblinc, [p5, pdblinc] across to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Row 9: S1 wyif, k1, [k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, s1-k1-psso, rki, k3, lki] across to last 7 sts, k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, s1-k1-psso, k2.
Row 10: S1 wyif, p2, pdblinc, [p7, pdblinc] across to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Row 11: S1 wyif, k1, k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, s1-k1-psso, [k5, k2tog, s1, yo, s1-k1-psso] across to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 12: S1 wyif, p2, pdblinc, [p7, pdblinc] to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Row 13: S1 wyif, k1, [k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, s1-k1-psso, rki, k5, lki] to last 7 sts, k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, s1-k1-psso, k2.
Row 14: S1 wyif, p2, pdblinc, [p9, pdblinc] across to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Row 15: S1 wyif, k1, k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, s1-k1-psso, [k7, k2tog, s1, yo, s1-k1-psso] to last 2 sts, k2.
Rows 16-17: Repeat rows 14-15.
Row 18: S1 wyif, p2, pdblinc, [p9, pdblinc] across to last 3 sts, p2, k1.

Continue in this manner, increasing 1 st on each side of stockinette inset panel.

Abbreviations

k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together.
kdblinc (knit double increase) = [Knit, yo, knit] all in yo and next st tog.
kfbf = Knit into the front of the stitch, leaving the stitch on the needle, then knit into the back, and then front of the same stitch.
lki = Lift the stitch 2 rows below the last stitch onto the left needle and knit this stitch.
No stitch = This stitch is ignored.
p = purl
pdblinc (purl double increase) = [purl, yrn, purl] all in next st together with yarn over
rki = Lift the stitch 1 row below the next stitch onto the left needle and knit this stitch.
s1 wyif = with the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
s1-k1-psso = slip one stitch knitwise, then knit next stitch and pass the slipped stitch over.
yo = bring yarn forward and as you knit next stitch, allow to form a new stitch over right needle.
yrn = take yarn from front over right needle and return to front between needles (counter-clockwise)

 

Try it in the round and make a cowl!

If you'd like to make a cowl with the wisteria lace motif, I'd recommend the following steps:

Find 1 or 2 skeins of yarn that you would love to wear around your neck. Cast on 20 to 30 sts and work 10 rows in stockinette to find your gauge (# of sts per 10 cm).

Then measure the circumference of the distance around your neck where you would like the cowl to be the tightest. Make sure that this circumference isn't smaller than your head circumference or you won't be able to get the cowl over your head, unless the yarn is quite stretchy and you're good at making stretching cast-ons.

Take the number of inches or centimeters for the cowl's narrowest circumference and multiple by the tension and divide by 10 to get the approximate number of stitches. Then you'll need to find the closest multiple of 6 sts and cast that many stitches on.

Then follow the diagram or instructions below.

Wisteria in the round

Instructions

Cast on the stitches you calculated above. Remember, there should be a multiple of 6.

Round 1: [K1, k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, s1-k1-psso] around.
Round 2: [K2, kdblinc, k1] around.
Rounds 3-4: Repeat rows 1-2.
Round 5: [Kfbf, k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, s1-k1-psso] around.
Round 6: [K4, kdblinc, k1] 3 times.
Round 7: [K3, k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, s1-k1-psso] around.
Round 8: [K4, kdblinc, k1] 3 times.
Round 9: [Rki, k3, lki, k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, s1-k1-psso] around.
Round 10: [K6, kdblinc, k1] around.
Round 11: [K5, k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, s1-k1-psso] around.
Round 12: [K6, kdblinc, k1] around.
Round 13: [Rki, k5, lki, k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, s1-k1-psso] around.
Round 14: [K8, kdblinc, k1] around.
Round 15: [K7, k2tog, s1 wyif, yo, s1-k1-psso] around.
Rounds 16-17: Repeat rows 14-15.
Round 18: [K8, kdblinc, k1] around.

Continue increasing this way until the desired width is reached...then continue without increases working the stockinette stitch panels even and the wisteria motifs even as well. I hope you post a picture of your cowls and share them with us on our Facebook page: www.facebook.com/KNITmuch .

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I hope that you've enjoyed exploring different ways to change stitch patterns to make something unique to you. You can make these changes with many different stitch patterns to see what turns out.

Adding stitches to a knitting stitch pattern

Wisteria pattern with added stitches

When a stitch pattern seems compact to you, or you don't want an all-over effect, it's a good time to add stitches to your knitting. The logical place to do so is in between the pattern repeats.

In the above swatch, I added a stitch between each 5-stitch pattern repeat. Then I faced another choice, should I make it a column of knit stitches on the RS, a column of purl stitches, or a column of garter stitch (k on both sides).

At first glance it's hard to tell whether I used a purl column or a garter stitch column, as both tend to have the same familiar bump or horizontal strand across. A purl column actually recedes into the knitted fabric and the garter stitch column tends to lie flat, so in this case I chose the latter.

One thing I discovered by adding stitches is that you may get a ribbed look and that may not be what you're going for. By adding a column of garter stitch, the fabric still lies relatively flat and doesn't look like ribbing, but it also means that the right side and wrong side of the stitch pattern start to look quite similar. In this case, the fabric is practically reversible, such that I didn't even take a picture of both sides.

To knit a scarf or cowl, I would suggest using this stitch pattern, you could even place 2 or 3 stitches between each 5-stitch repeat and work them in garter stitch. This would be a good project for a beginner who is ready to move beyond plain garter stitch and would like to learn some new stitches like the ssk and the yarnover.

Wisteria stitch pattern with garter stitch inserts

Instructions

Cast on a multiple of 6 stitches, plus 1 stitch for symmetry, plus 2 sts, one for each edge.

Row 1: S1 wyif, [k1, k2tog, yo, sl 1 wyif, s1-k1-psso] across to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2: S1 wyif, [k2, pdblinc, k1] across to last 2 sts, k2.
Rows 3-20: Repeat rows 1-2.

Naturally, you could continue repeating rows 1 and 2 until you've reached the desired length.

Abbreviations
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together.
p = purl
pdblinc (purl double increase) = [purl, yrn, purl] all in next st together with yarn over
s1 wyif = with the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
s1-k1-psso = slip one stitch knitwise, then knit next stitch and pass the slipped stitch over.
yo = bring yarn forward and as you knit next stitch, allow to form a new stitch over right needle.
yrn = take yarn from front over right needle and return to front between needles (counter-clockwise).

Don't miss the 1 essential tip about changing a knitting stitch pattern in tomorrow's post!

Come over to the purl side!

Today we'll continue our series on how, when, and why to change stitch patterns. We'll continue to use the wisteria stitch pattern as our starting off point.

The first way to change a stitch pattern is to replace knit stitches with purl stitches, and vice-versa. Naturally, we don't want to do that to every stitch in the motif repeat, but by selecting key stitches, we can achieve an interesting effect that won't have been recorded in any stitch dictionary anywhere, ever. Unless, of course, someone else has been busy reading this blog and swatching their changes to stitch patterns.

So, the first reason to change a stitch pattern, then, is to be original. You don't have to be a professional designer to make these changes. Sometimes, a tweak to the stitch pattern is just what you need to maintain interest when you're making the same cowl for 8 people for the next gift-giving holidays.

Let's have a look at the wisteria stitch pattern after I made a few changes. The unchanged version of the wisteria stitch pattern has mostly knit stitches on both the right and the wrong side, so this is where I began to make the changes.

Right side, version 2 of wisteria stitch pattern

On the right side of this first variation of the wisteria stitch pattern, the first thing you'll notice is the colors. This stitch pattern very easily makes multi-colored hand-dyed yarn look great. It especially prevents pooling of one color in one area because the stitches lift new colors into proximity with those above them.

The change that I introduced to this stitch pattern was to use purl stitches instead of knit stitches on the wrong side of the row. This gave the right side a consistent knit stitch appearance and made the paired decreases clear and balanced.

The diagram and instructions to make this version with purl stitches on the wrong side follow below.

Diagram for version 2 of wisteria stitch pattern

Instructions

Cast on desired number of stitches. There should be a multiple of 5 stitches, plus 2 (one for each selvdge).

Row 1: S1 wyif, [k2tog, yo, sl1 wyif, s1-k1-psso] across to last st, k1.
Row 2: S1 wyif, [p1, pdblinc, p1] across to last st, k1.
Rows 3-20: Repeat rows 1-2.
 
Abbreviations
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
p = purl
pdblinc (purl double increase) = [purl, yrn, purl] all in next st together with yarn over
s1 wyif = with the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right
s1-k1-psso = slip one stitch knitwise, then knit next stitch and pass the slipped stitch over
yo = bring yarn forward and as you knit next stitch, allow to form a new stitch over right needle
yrn = take yarn from front over right needle and return to front between needles (counter-clockwise)

Purl side of version 2 of wisteria stitch pattern

I'm very impressed with how a simple change to a few stitches makes a completely new look to a pattern. In the picture above, you can see the purl side (what some people may call the wrong side) of this version of the stitch pattern. I really like how this side makes certain colors pop and others recede into the background. The column of eyelets also stands out more in this version than the original. I think I will use this version of the stitch pattern in a design and this will be the right side! It's key never to forget the purl side!

When, how, and why change stitch patterns in knitting

Stitch dictionaries abound, and you can always find a new idea for a stitch pattern on Pinterest or with a Google search, but sometimes, you just may not want to use the stitch pattern that you've found as is. You want to change the stitch pattern a wee bit, but you're not quite sure how. This week we'll explore why you may want to change a stitch pattern, when it's a good idea to make a switch, and how to change a stitch pattern.

A wisteria vine

The wisteria stitch

The stitch pattern that we'll be exploring this week is a traditional stitch pattern that stylizes the cascading petals of the wisteria flower. While the actual flower has an unruly column of petals that create luxurious plumes that sway in the wind, the knit wisteria stitch is a little more orderly and arranges the stitches to look like columns of stitches and the lovely airy spaces in between.

Right side of the traditional wisteria stitch pattern

To knit the traditional wisteria stitch pattern you need a multiple of 5 stitches for each pattern repeat, plus 1 selvedge stitch for each side.

The wisteria stitch pattern has less drape than stockinette stitch when worked in the same needle size as that recommended for the yarn of your choice, so if you want a little more flexibility and lightness to the resulting fabric, you'll want to use a needle size larger or a yarn whose twist and fiber content give a lot of natural drape to the knitting.

The chart and instructions for the wisteria stitch pattern are below. Tomorrow we'll look at the first 'when, why, and how' to change a stitch pattern using this pattern. If you're knitting along and exploring these swatches, I'd encourage you to try different yarns and different needles sizes.

Wisteria pattern stitch diagram and symbols key

Instructions

Cast on desired number of stitches. There should be a multiple of 5 stitches, plus 2 (one for each selvdge).

Row 1: S1 wyif, [k2tog, yo, sl 1 wyif, s1-k1-psso] across to last st, k1.
Row 2: S1 wyif, [k1, pdblinc, k1] across to last st, k1.
Rows 3-20: Repeat rows 1-2.
 
Abbreviations

k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together.
pdblinc (purl double increase) = [purl, yrn, purl] all in next st together with yarn over.
s1 wyif = with the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
s1-k1-psso = slip one stitch knitwise, then knit next stitch and pass the slipped stitch over.
yo = bring yarn forward and as you knit next stitch, allow to form a new stitch over right needle.
yrn = take yarn from front over right needle and return to front between needles (counter-clockwise)

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The wrong side of the wisteria stitch pattern is also lovely and highlights the eyelets slightly differently with what looks like three pairs of arms pulling back the petals to reveal the eyelet.

Wrong side of wisteria stitch pattern